Living in New York, I’m constantly surrounded by people who may or may not be professional models. I’m in awe every day as I look at cool girl after cool girl on the subway wearing the latest shoe trend or a devastatingly cool hat when I can barely remember not to wear the same pair of pants to work two days in a row. But living in the fashion capital of America means I must grow accustomed to the constant parade of fashionistas, mostly because the designers all live here and will keep putting my fellow New Yorkers in eye-catching outfits whether I get on board or not.
Despite my proximity to the world of couture, I have absolutely no idea how one actually becomes a fashion designer, which is why I reached out to two vets—Emma Rowen Rose, creative director of Rowen Rose, and Romeo Hunte, founder of Romeo Hunte—to learn how they launched their careers and found success in the cutthroat industry. Rose dropped a collection last year and Hunte just had a show at New York Fashion Week, so they definitely know a thing or two about making it. Read on for expert advice on how to become a fashion designer.
Retail work is one of the easiest ways to break into the industry
Retail work is helpful but not mandatory. “Knowing all the different steps of the fashion industry’s process can make all the difference,” advises Rose. Hunte, on the other hand, credits retail work with launching his career, “For me, working in retail gave me a sense of how things worked. I had the opportunity to meet a few stylists and even celebrities on the sales floor. From there, you can start building connections with the stylist or the celebrities by allowing them to see your work and even perhaps create a custom piece for them.”
Get this: It was while working in retail that Hunte had the chance to meet Beyoncé’s stylist. “From there, I built a friendship with her, and one day, I woke up and Beyoncé was wearing one of my pieces,” Hunte remembers. I can’t guarantee that this will be your life path, but my fingers are crossed for you!
Fashion school is valuable, but real experience is an absolute must
Both designers agree that school is helpful, but you need hands-on experience to really make a name for yourself. “School is a great way to get you started, but I would not recommend doing just that,” says Hunte, who attended the Fashion Institute of Technology. “Experiences in the field matter greatly. As for me, I had the opportunity to intern at a few companies that shaped who I am today and how I designed.”
For Rose, going to school helped her develop her aesthetic, but it didn’t replace studying seamstress work and understanding how clothes function. “Understanding patternmaking and sewing is crucial to be a good fashion designer,” she insists. “You don’t have to be the best seamstress, but you need to understand how a garment is made, so when you design it, you can explain how it should be made.”
Working with an established brand can help you get your foot in the door
Working with a big brand, though not mandatory, can make a huge difference in your understanding of the business of fashion. “It’s a great experience to have where you will also get to build a stronger connection with people in the industry,” explains Hunte, “However, that is not the only avenue to becoming a fashion designer and getting your brand recognized.”
“I’d recommend starting with a smaller brand to understand different aspects of a company and then switching to a bigger one to get a bigger picture,” advises Rose, “Each path is different and there are no rules. The key to embarking on your own is being ready to work harder than ever and being passionate about what you do. Nothing is easy about being an entrepreneur.”
Be proactive about getting your designs in stores
“Always reach out [to retailers] to get their attention,” suggests Hunte. “Find who’s the fashion director, and send them your look book each season. You just never know when they might call you in for a meeting.” He also says it’s important to have a line sheet ready to share, which is basically a list of all your products, as well as multiple color options for fabrics. The retail gods love options, and it’s your job to be ready.
But before you reach out to any retailers, spend some time thinking about the identity of your brand—you’ll need to be able to present a clear vision. “Then try to contact every shop that you feel represents your brand,” advises Rose, “You won’t be answered always, but the key is to never stop trying.”
It’s okay to be picky about fashion shows
Hunte recently had a show in New York Fashion Week, but he said you shouldn’t be spending money on shows early on in your career. “At the beginning, try to find a venue that will host your show for free and work with a team of people on outreach—asking celebrities/influencers to attend your show.”
“Later in the years, I’d say to hire a full PR to handle your show. You always should be very cost-minded and not spend more than what you’re making. You can be out of business if you’re not careful,” warns Hunte. While fashion shows seem super glam, you should be choosy and make sure they’re worth it for you.
Know that fashion design is a tough line of work
A lot of people forget that becoming a fashion designer means entering the business world. “It’s not as glamorous as some people think,” reminds Hunte. “It is a lot of hard work and dedication. It’s not just making clothes and having shows. There’s a business side to it too, and you must be ready for that. There will be weeks with no sleep where you must get things done.”
Rose shares a similar sentiment: “The fashion industry is a real business industry....It isn’t only about art and fame! It is also about work and strategy. You have to know how to adapt and multitask.”
If you’re still interested in breaking into the big bad world of fashion design, be prepared to deal with lots of numbers, advertising, budgeting, and everything else involved in launching a business. It’s a tough industry, but I believe in ya.